Merida is about as central as you get in the Iberian peninsular, safely tucked away in Spain’s western Extremadura region – roughly translated as “The Extremity.” Possibly because it is a little off the beaten track, it has some finely preserved Roman and Moorish architecture. Merida was one of the largest Roman cities in Spain, founded as a city for army veterans by Emperor Augustus in 25BC – hence the name, Emerita Augusta.
If you are traveling between Portugal and Spain, it is a good stop-off as well – I took a non-stop 3.5 hour bus from Lisbon, and then went on to Seville, which is about another 3 hours. Merida is very compact and walkable, and it’s narrow streets and fairly cosy main square suggest that the dead hand of modern development has largely missed this place.
You can pass through a ceremonial arch built for Emperor Tiberius and cross over one of the largest surviving bridges of ancient times.
Conquered by the Moors in about 715 AD, many of the Roman buildings, such as the main fort, were adapted. The Moorish fort, or Alcazaba, was built in about 835 and sits at the the east end of the Roman bridge, which dates from around 100AD, and is the world’s longest ancient era bridge, still carrying pedestrians and cyclists across the Guadiana River.
The Alcazaba has an intact wall and you can walk into its central tower and descend to an underground well, useful in a siege.
The Alcazaba has great views over the river and the Roman bridge.
Walking back into town, you pass the Temple of Diana neatly located dropped into the low-lying town.
You can set aside at least an hour to see the 1st-century BC amphitheater and theater, just east of the old city. The amphitheater, built around 8BC, still has a lot standing, including the underground “fossa bestiaria,” covered with wood and sand to house animals before they were released into the arena.
The entrance and gladiator’s hang out are well preserved.
Just adjacent and part of the same museum complex, the Roman theater, built around 20BC and it’s backdrop, built later, are quite intact and still used for live performances, including a summertime classical theater festival.
One other must-see is the National Museum of Roman Art, which contains a large number of excavated artifacts.
Floor mosaics depicting hunting scenes have been carefully restored.
Restored wall paintings and floor mosaics from a Roman villa.
Roman anthropomorphism puts Disney to shame with show-off horses batting their eyelids at you.
The museum is built over an excavated Roman road and settlement.
Back in town, dueling medieval painting and 3-D baroque crenellation at the Santa Maria la Mayor cathedral.
Logistics. I ate (twice) at the Entrecanas Bar de tapas, on Calle Félix Valverde Lillo, 4, which had great raciones (left) and breakfast (right).
I stayed at the Hotel Rambla Emerita which was just fine, although if you want to go upscale there is a Parador located in a former convent. The bus station is located over the river at the west end of the Lusitania Bridge, about a 15-minute walk from the town center, and there is frequent service to Seville. The railway station is located immediately north of town but check the schedules as frequencies are far less frequent.
