Armenia has a similar area to Belgium but with a very diverse geography, from the Caucasus mountain range that runs along the length of the country, to wine-growing valleys and lakeland beaches. Most visitors head for the regions around Yerevan where you’ll find winter sports and summer hiking. Further southeast takes you along rugged terrain on the road to Meghri on the Iranian border. This route takes you from Yegheghnazdor to the cities of Goris and Kapan, and along the way you have stunning scenery, monastic centers and silk road route towns.

Trip 1: Tatev Monastery. Setting out from Yegheghnazdor towards Goris, you’ll get to experience the typical valleys and mountain passes that Armenian road travelers have to deal with. Tatev Monastery sits on the southern side of the wooded Vorotan Gorge.

You’ll turn south off the main M12 highway and head along the northern side of the gorge before crossing the river at Devil’s Bridge and then approaching the monastery up the other side. If you wish to save yourself a hilly switchbacked drive of about 20-30 minutes in each direction, you can stop at the Wings of Tatev cable car (https://tatever.am/en) and take that instead – the view from the 12-minute ride over the Vorotan Gorge is certainly better. Tatev monastery was founded in the 9th century and its main Sts Peter & Paul church dates from around 900. The St Gregory Church was built just south of it around , next to the separate tomb of Saint Gregor Tatevitsi. As with many old buildings in seismically active Armenia, there was extensive damage from a 1931 earthquake, since reconstructed.

If you have extra time, there is a great 7-kilometer hike between the monastery and Devil’s Bridge, a natural rock bridge over the Vorotan River that runs down the side of the gorge and along the valley floor (https://hikearmenia.org/all-trails/trail/devils-bridge).

You’ll need to arrange for a pickup at the other end to return to your start point.

Trip 2: Goris. Goris is an excellent town for a stopover. It’s an attractive place that sits in a wider valley area, with the medieval cave city of Old Goris nestled in the cliffsides and conical rock formations to the east of town.

Goris has many well-preserved classic southern Armenian stone houses, many of which are adding their traditional wooden balconies back.

It’s a pleasant town to walk round and the medieval cave dwellings of Old Goris are worth seeing – you can cross the Vararek River via the Garegin Nzhdeh Street bridge and then take a right on Satyan Street to reach the park area. You can use the Hike Armenia app to guide you – https://hikearmenia.org/all-trails/trail/time-travel-to-old-goris.

Kapan’s main Parc de Vienne square and the commercial area just north are popular gathering spots and there are a few cafes and restaurants in the immediate vicinity. You can visit the Aksel Bakunts House Museum (41 Mashtots Street), which is a well-preserved example of a traditional home and an insight into a famous Armenian writer.

Goris Logistics. Goris has a wide range of accommodation and I stayed at the Khoreayi Dzor Hotel, a modern hotel with large rooms and great views over the city – it’s a 20-minute walk to and from the center and there are also good alternatives closer in. Two good restaurants in town are the Wine Garden (65 Syunik Street), which has a large outdoor garden area and is popular for Armenian barbeque, and the Takarik Tavern (65 Syunik Street).

The Cafe Tur Bazar (end of Grigor Tatevatsi Street), which overlooks the river and medieval cave complex has a good outdoor beer garden and friendly staff – try the local Goris beer, a well made malty lager.

Goris is the home of Armenia’s national quick dish, Jhingalov Hacs, which is a selection of fresh herbs put between fresh lavash bread and griddled. It’s delicious and meets most dietary requirements.

Trip 3: Kapan. Kapan is a 2-3 hour drive south through the scenic Goris River gorge and Vorotan River valley. It can be a slow drive with hairpin bends, Iranian trucks and periodic rainy weather and fog. Note that certain stretches of the road lie inside the post-2020 War settlement Azerbaijani border, and that you’ll see (as of 2021) Armenian military and Russian ceasefire observers at certain points.

You can travel through in safety – applying caution for rain, fog and slow-moving trucks – but be ready to stop at the Armenian security checkpoints where they may ask to see your passport and then wave you through. If you use google maps you won’t be routed via this direct southeasterly Goris-Kapan road (and instead sent via Tatev), but ask at your hotel before you set out whether the road is open, which it was in Spring 2021.

Kapan is a grittier working town set in the Voghji River valley, with significant industrial activity from Soviet times. You’ll see a large number of workers’ flats set into the northern hillsides overlooking the town, reflecting it’s importance as a Soviet-era industrial center.

Today, it’s an important center for molybdenum mining. The Kapan History Museum (24/41 Garegin Nzhdeh Street) is worth a visit, and records the history of the 1994 Nagorno-Karabakh War, as well as the participation of Kapan’s citizens in WW2. There’s also good recording of Kapan’s development since the 19th century and as a mining center.

There are some good side trips possible from Kapan. If you’re a determined driver, you could go on to Meghri, 72 kilometers away on the Iranian border.

Vahanavank Monastery is worth a look – just 10 minutes west of Kapan along the Meghri Road, this 11th century church was built by the Queen of Syunik.

Another more ambitious outdoor objective is Mount Khustrup, which can be accessed via the Baghaburj area of Kapan or via Navcha https://www.alltrails.com/trail/armenia/syunik–3/mount-khustup.

Kapan Logistics. Kapan has a few hotels in the center, and the Dian Hotel, a 15-minute walk just east of town, is modern and well-run. Cafe Elegant (32 Shahumyan Street) and Tumanyan’s (Shahumyan Street roundabout just east of Cafe Elegant) are popular restaurants. A good shwarma cafe is located just west of Cafe Elegant on the opposite side of Shahumyan Street.