Absolutely goddamn right. Northern Thailand offers hilly tropical park and riverside vistas to the itinerant traveler as well as being a convenient riverine link to Luang Prabang in Laos. Chiang Mai is a popular hub for visitors although if you want a quieter venue head northeast for Chiang Rai. From there you can head towards Thailand’s hilly frontiers with Myanmar or Laos. Thaton is one border center at the top of the country, across from Myanmar.
The Kok River, a tributary of the Mekong River that flows from the Myanmar highlands via northern Thailand into Laos, is the most direct and traditional route between Chiang Rai and Tha Ton.
Leaving Chiang Rai. Chiang Rai is a laid back regional center that’s worth staying for a day or two. You should make sure to see the Baan Dam (Black House) Museum, 11km north, a complex of traditional houses filled with exhibits created by the artist Thawan Duchanee.
Another attraction is the contemporary and ornate all-white Wat Rong Khun (White Temple), 13 km south of town. To depart Chiang Rai, you can book a longtail boat by calling the ferry service owner at +66892700869, or you can book via the very helpful Government tourism office located inside Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 1, located on Prasopsook Road downtown. The one-way boat rental cost was ฿2,500 (about US$70) – the scheduled service offered in the reverse direction (Tha Ton – Chiang Rai) wasn’t available at the time. Ferries depart from the Cherdchai Pier terminal (here https://goo.gl/maps/K6QzSuVjNubR8QFv8) and a pickup from your hotel is included in the service. Other destination options from Chiang Rai include mixed road and Mekong River travel to the historic riverside city of Luang Prabang, Laos (visa on entry is usually available but check before you go) – many providers will arrange a through ticket.
The ferries are usually equipped with a lightweight roof but you are open to the elements for the most part.
The Kok River. The journey lasts 2-3 hours by shallow draught longtail boats, so called because the propeller rotates at the end of a 3-meter (or thereabouts) shaft that allows both sharp maneuver and avoidance of grounding in shallow water.
The middle section of the river narrows and winds through steeper passes with rock pools and whitewater rapids, which the boats deal with readily.
Video: https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipN2HNw6MsgWlxcm-u5DjG4bEYdvrbODchHb9KHZ
Most of the riverside consists of agricultural land interspaced with jungle – patches of hillside get used up.
As you get closer to Tha Ton, the winding river opens out into a wide agricultural valley with views of the northern hill ranges, that mark the Myanmar border country and are dotted with distinctive white temple spires.
Finally, Tha Ton with its monastery, temple and standing Buddha comes into sight.
Tha Ton. Tha Ton is a small border town clustered around the boat station. It has decent accommodation and the surrounding area is quite attractive for hiking and general contemplation.
You can visit the Doi Pha Hom Pak National Park and hike to Huamereng Peak, or if you just want to walk or bike into the valley just head northwest from the town center along the 1314 Road which takes you into the nearby farming valleys. Closer to town are the Wat Thaton Chedi and Standing Buddha, that overlook the Kok River on its way to the Myanmar border.
Logistics. Tha Ton has infrequent scheduled bus service to Chiang Mai, and periodic unscheduled sangkaews (pickup trucks with covered bench seating in the back) run the 26 km to and from Fang – my morning wait by the police station at Tha Ton bridge took 45 minutes. From Fang bus station, there are frequent long-haul bus and minivans going to Chiang Mai and Bangkok. In Tha Ton, I stayed at the Maekok River Village Resort which was comfortable and a mile east of town along the Chiang Rai road. Should you wish to return to Chiang Rai by public boat service, there is a ticket office selling ฿400 tickets for the daily 12:30 departure.
