Penang is Malaysia’s largest island with its capital, Georgetown a remarkably preserved Asian trading city. One of three Straits Settlements (the others being Malacca and Singapore) carved out for direct rule in the British colonization of Malaysia, Penang grew as a seaport, trading and financial center. As its economy grew, Penang became a popular destination for Chinese immigrants from the Pearl River Delta in the late 19th century. Unlike Singapore, much of Georgetown’s center avoided the wrecking ball of the 1970s and 1980s, in part owing to rent controls that limited redevelopment. Commercial rejuvenation in the 2000s supported preservation of its architectural heritage, with UNESCO World Heritage status achieved in 2008. Penang is one of the largest Asian cities with a pre-WW2 architecture substantially intact.

Penang is typical of many multicultural East Asian port cities, with significant Malay, Chinese, Southern Indian, Eurasian and expat communities. It’s a notable center of the Peranakan community, made of up Intermarried Chinese and Malay families – you’ll see reference to the Babas (male Peranakans) and Nyonyas (female).

You can build a walking itinerary around the various temples, some of which (near Lebuh Armenian) allow admission, such as the Yap Kongsi, Teochew Buddhist Temple, Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi and the Hainan Thean Hou Temple.

It’s worth staying in the very walkable and shophouse-lined older part of Georgetown, which runs southwest from the colonial Fort Cornwallis and Government buildings that surround the Padang, a grassy parade and sports ground.

Fort Cornwallis and the Padang

This area marks the original British settlement, where Penang was bought from the Sultan of Kedah by the East India Company in 1786. The fort was originally a wooden stockade that was rebuilt in its current moated brick and stone version in 1810. The fort never saw action but served as an administrative center, with a lighthouse added in the late 19th century. The museum has a range of Dutch East India Company cannons (look for the VOC label) from the early 17th century that were seized in various conflicts.

The colonial administrative buildings, built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, are now local government buildings and public spaces.

Peranakan Mansion

This opulent townhouse was built for a Baba business leader and founder of the city of Taiping, Chung Keng Kwee, around 1895 and is well worth the visit. There is an adjacent temple dedicated to his family that has been extensively renovated. The building fell into disrepair but was acquired in the 1990s and developed as a museum for the Peranakan culture.

There are frequent guided tours that you don’t specifically book for, but can enquire about on entry or just wait in the main entrance foyer.

The mansion is a top-20 Asian tourism destination, used as a set for and popularized by the Singaporean Mandarin Chinese language television series The Little Nyonya. It’s a popular destination for people to hang out in period dress and be photographed. http://www.pinangperanakanmansion.com.my

The tour includes the adjacent family temple which is quite elaborate and contains an altar dedicated to the Chung family.

Another historical mansion, the Cheong Fat Tze mansion (the Blue Mansion), is also open to the public https://www.cheongfatttzemansion.com and is a very comfortable B&B. You can also see a set of mansions built along Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah, west of the old town, and eyeball the abandoned Runneymede Hotel, which was the alternative luxury hotel in the early 20th century.

Little India

Penang’s Indian community centers on a few blocks around King and Penang streets east of Chulia Street. There are also a set of Hindu temples in the area that are worth a look.

Other Ideas

Penang National Park (Taman Negara)

A short ride to the northwest side of the island, this seafront jungle park is a good escape from the city. You can head out to Muka Head lighthouse or go for a swim at one of the beaches.

Penang Hill

Penang’s hilly hinterland (https://www.penanghill.gov.my/index.php/en/attractions) is worth a visit for some rainforest hiking or to stay in one of the lodges, some of which were originally built for the British in the 19th century as a retreat from the heat and humidity at sea level (https://www.penanghill.gov.my/index.php/en/attractions/accommodation). A funicular railway (busier on weekends) goes from Air Itam to Bukit Bendera (Flagstaff Hill), which tops out at 2,450 feet. You can also hike up to the Middle and Upper funicular stations from Air Itam to the south or from the Botanical Gardens/Municipal Park (both worth a stroll themselves) to the east. There are multiple trails to choose from, including the Heritage Trail (shorter but harder with more stairs), the Penang Hill Trail (starting near Penhill Condominium in Air Itam) and the Moon Gate Trail starting from the Botanical Gardens https://penanghill.gov.my/hikingtrails/. There are multiple nature walk trails from around the Upper station, mostly in the 1.5 – 3 km distance range. If you do the uphill hike, it’s best to do so earlier in the morning, and you could buy a ticket down on the funicular if one hike is enough.

Logistics

Getting There and Around

The quickest and simplest way to arrive is to fly in, with plenty of connections from Kuala Lumpur as well as multiple daily flights from regional hubs like Singapore and Bangkok. There is rail service around Malaysia via a ferry or bus to Butterworth train station. Be careful of the intercity bus to Kuala Lumpur as the highways can get very congested, especially on weekends, and the bus schedules do not reflect this. Taxis are plentiful around the island and the Grab app is used in Malaysia.

Accommodation

Hotels and B&Bs are plentiful and high quality; there are multiple B&Bs converted from Peranakan mansions that are worth a look. I stayed at The George Hotel which was very comfortable. If you want a break from George Town, additional to Penang Hill, the Batu Ferringhi beach area on the north of the island has a concentration of hotels. You could also visit the waterfront Eastern & Oriental Hotel (built 1885) for it’s colonial-era vibe.

F&B

Penang is highly regarded for its South East Asian and Indian food, often gathered into hawker centers. There are plenty of Nasi Lemak and Nasi Kandar restaurants where you can pick from a range of sides to go with steamed rice.

A few extensive hawker centers include New World Park (Swatow Lane and Jalan Hutton), Macalister Signature Food Court (105 Jalan Macalister), Anson Road Market Food Court (Jalan Seang Tek just south of Jalan Anson). The main things to look for are dry and wet noodle dishes as well as rice and side combos; Char Kway Teow is perhaps the flagship noodle dish, with your choice of protein options. The Singaporean local food blog Makansutra has some good tips for eating out in Penang: https://makansutra.com/penang-not-just-about-char-koay-teow/

There aren’t a lot of places serving satay, a Malaysian barbeque, but AK Satay is great (on Lebuh Presgrave near Lebuh McNair). Some good local Peranakan restaurants include D’Dapor (147 Jalan Hutton) and Jawi House (85 Lebuh Armenian). Southern Indian food is another rich environment – try Woodlands Vegetarian (60 Lebuh Penang), Muthu Banana Leaf (153 Lebuh Acheh) and Kandy (119 Jalan Penang). Woodlands has great masala dosa and coffee for breakfast. Fu Er Dai (7 Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah) has great dim sum.

Penang’s nightlife is quite lively, in part being a diverse port city that caters to a significant year round tourist market. Good places to find casual outdoor bars are Chulia Street between Lebuh Cintra and Love Lane, and the surrounding area; and around Armenian Street. Momokaka (48 Lebuh Armenian) is a local craft brewery that also sells a good selection of regional beers.