There aren’t many constructed wonders of the world remaining that are only accessible by 19th-century transport modes. Macchu Pichu is one that can be reached on foot via the Inca Trail or by rail. The site takes some planning to visit – do not just turn up – not least because booking/planning ahead is required and visitor numbers are capped.
First, fly to Cusco – unless you enjoy long bus rides – Lima-Cusco is about 18 hours by road. Cusco is unique and itself worth a visit but once you’re there it would be a shame not to go the last 100 kilometers.
Macchu Picchu is a mystery in part because it has no record, either from the Incas (who had no written script but used a system of knotted thread to record information) or the invading Spanish. Archaeological research has established that it was commissioned by the Emperor Pachucutec around 1450, probably as a religious and political center, with a series of temples, a palace complex, residences and terraced agricultural areas. It supported a relatively small community of up to about 1,000, as compared to the Inca imperial capital of Cusco which is estimated to have had about 50,000 inhabitants. Connected to the empire’s highway network, there is an identified trail that runs east-southeast from Macchu Picchu via the Sacred Valley to Cusco. The Urabamba River winds round the site and opens out into the Sacred Valley, which widens to form an important agricultural area that would have served both Cusco to its east and Macchu Picchu to its west.
One common reference point for the Inca civilization – histories written by the invading Spanish – is silent on Macchu Picchu. As such, one theory is that the Incas abandoned the site sometime after the Spanish seized Cusco, thereby leaving the site to be overgrown in the high jungle environment. Thereafter, it was known mostly to the local population and as the subject of rumors, until its global re-discovery by the American archaeologist Hiram Bingham in 1911. It is estimated to have taken about 60 years to construct starting in around 1450 – quarried and platformed out of a granite mountain whose stone was then used to build the terraced foundations and buildings – and was only used for a few decades before being abandoned, possibly as late as 1572. Although, notably, Cusco was seized by the Spaniards in 1533, and one theory is that this event precipitated the withdrawal from Macchu Picchu.
The site – about 530 x 200 meters in size – was walled but not fortified, suggesting that it existed within a relatively secure imperial environment. In addition to its own agricultural area, it would have been supplied via the trail network from the Sacred Valley located to the southeast. The site’s 8,000-foot altitude location, in a saddle between two peaks, within the mountainous terrain of the high tropical Andes, limited access and assisted in its security.
The late Inca empire extended northeast into the Amazon basin. This area held the last stronghold at Vilcabamba on the northeastern slopes of the Andes, that was finally conquered in 1572.
The Site. You enter from the southeast side and head up to the top of the main agricultural terraces at the south of site, which provides the classic view north towards the residential and temple areas, set around the main plaza that runs north toward Huayna Picchu. There are over 600 terraces, built to serve as a set of foundations, as well as for agriculture. You will see how the Urabamba River loops round the northern side of the site, and how inaccessible it was from most directions.
To the south east, you can see the original Inca trail that leads up to the Sun Gate, Machu Picchu’s main entrance from the Sacred Valley.
As you walk north to enter the main gate, you look down into the temple complex, which consists of a set of temples – the Main Temple, Temple of the Three Windows, all arranged around the Sacred Plaza. Above them is a rocky terraced outcrop, the Iniwatana Pyramid, which contains a ceremonial stage and a sundial. There is another temple hidden behind Huayna Picchu – the Moon Temple – built into a cave.
It is believed that higher status priests had access to the Iniwatana, with lower status individuals joining religious ceremonies from the Main Plaza.
The stone block construction is particularly impressive when you consider the Incas didn’t have access to pack animals – apart from llamas whose carrying payload is about 30 kilos – or to iron or steel tools, with copper being the main working metal.
At the north end of the main plaza, you’ll find the Sacred Rock, a flat-faced granite slab, possibly used for religious ceremonies.
Moving clockwise around the site, the buildings located southeast of the Main Plaza along the terraced hillside contain the imperial residences and the Sun Temple, and also the main cluster of water springs. Macchu Picchu’s water supply came from springs on site, supported by a network of water sluices.
The buildings had sloped roofs and the stone walls had painted plaster covers, making for a colorful city.
The Temple of Condor lies close to the Temple of the Sun, so called because it was constructed around a rock formation that resembles the spread wings of the bird.
Logistics. Arranging a visit to this restricted and isolated site is straightforward but needs planning. Peru’s Ministry of Culture has reduced visitor numbers post-Covid and it appears that they prefer those lower numbers. You must book your visit in advance, either through the official website (https://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/?lang=en), or through a range of providers who hold block bookings and can also provide an individual or group guide. Guides are compulsory, and it is better to get one in advance, although there are official guides available at the entrance. The visit will be for a specific entry time and will last about 2.5 – 3 hours over a fixed route. The old mountain (Macchu Pichu), small mountain (Huayna Picchu) and the original Inca site entrance (the Sun Gate) were all closed as of October 2021. More ambitious visitors should look out for opportunities to go to Huayna Picchu or the Sun Gate, both of which are in the site, as things open up. Huayna Picchu adds at least 2 – 3 hours to the visit time.
Having obtained your slot, you should book your train tickets to Macchu Picchu’s service town of Aguas Calientes (also called Macchu Picchu Pueblo). There are two providers, the national rail company, Peru Rail (https://www.perurail.com), and Inca Rail (https://incarail.com). On Peru Rail, it’s worth spending more to ride the Vistadome service, which has a bit more space and better views. While there is a lot of hype over this service, ultimately you are traveling down a valley and so the views are limited. Peru Rail offers service from Cusco’s downtown San Pedro station, which rail purists will want to take, but most services with either operator run via a bus connection between Cusco’s Wanchay Bus Station (about 1.3 km from Cusco’s Plaza de las Armas) and the suburban Poroy rail station, with rail service to Aguas Calientes via Ollantaytambo. Also note that a “Bimodal” service option is also offered where the Cusco-Ollantaytambo section is by bus – I don’t recommend this as the bus journey is less comfortable and on not great roads.
The journey to and from Cusco takes between 4 – 5 hours and so you should overnight in Aguas Calientes either before or after your visit, unless you are keen on early starts and long days. Aguas Calientes has been mostly developed for the tourist trade in the last 8 years but is pleasant enough for an overnight with decent hotel and catering options. As of October 2021, rail and bus service requires a facemask and a faceshield. Check for your particular season, but be aware that for much of the year the cloud cover is most extensive in the morning, so afternoons are hotter but have better light for photography.
Once you are situated in Aguas Calientes, unless included in your Macchu Picchu visit package, you’ll need to buy a round-trip bus ticket between downtown and the park entrance. The Consettur ticket office (take your passport) is located just off Avenida Hermanos Ayar, with the bus stand round the corner here https://goo.gl/maps/evtYe3zwznszbwjg9. You should arrive at the bus stand about 45 minutes before your Macchu Picchu entry time to allow for the line for the bus followed by a 25 minute ride to the entrance. Key items to take on your tour include passport, ticket (on phone or paper), water and of course a camera. Dress for sun protection and apply sunblock.
The Inca Trail. Not covered here, the Inca Trail is definitely on most hikers’ bucket lists and there are many outfitters (e.g. https://incatrail.center) who offer guided/portered trips – again, the route, through a designated national park, is controlled with limited visitors, so guided travel is the only option. This is usually a 4-day excursion departing culminating in a morning entry to the Macchu Picchu site, although there are other shorter options.
The Sacred Valley. You pass through the Sacred Valley on the journey between Cusco and Macchu Picchu and it is worth pausing. As a major agricultural area – about 1,000 feet lower than Cusco – there are a set of historical sites that you can visit, including the fortress of Ollantaytambo and the temple city of Pisac. Ollantaytambo is a stop on the rail journey.
Be aware of the altitude. Cusco and Macchu Picchu are at 10,000 feet and 8,000 feet respectively so be ready to take it easy to start with, particularly if you aren’t in great shape. In most cases, having a slow day on arrival and a good night’s sleep, while staying hydrated, should set you up reasonably well. If in doubt, check with your doctor. The Macchu Picchu visit involves walking up and down stone stairways and again if you’re less fit, a couple of days’ acclimatizing is useful.